+33781308585  - Based in Chamonix and San Francisco-

    lagopede.png

    Climbing in El Chalten

    The Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre range

    Above the mythical village of El chalten lies the fantastic towers of the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. The Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre hold some of the most beautiful and commiting granite line in the world.

     

     

    CLIMBING STRATEGY

     

    Climbing in this part of the world requires a very precise strategy. Two approaches are most classically used.

    Strategy 1 : Taking a long vacation! Three weeks usually gives a reasonable chance to have a good weather window which will allow to tackle a serious objective. This is the strategy most commonly adopted. During these three weeks, there are plenty of things to do! Stashing the gear at the foot of the climb to be as reactive as possible when the window comes in, keeping fit by cragging and bouldering on the quality rock around El Chalten and making the most of even a short 12h window to climb peaks such as Aguja Guillaumet, El Mocho, Mojon Rojo, Cerro Solo...and much more!

    Stategy 2: The huge improvements in weather forecasting now allow to see the biggest high pressure systems (long good weather windows) up to 10 days in advance. For someone with little vacation time this can allow to climb one of Patagonia's most challenging summits in a 10-12 day round trip from home...sounds pretty crazy when you think about the 6 week expeditions of the 90's!The weather window that allowed my 2016 ascent of Cerro Riso Patron (probably the worst weather in Patagonia, a lot worst then Cerro Torre...) was visible 15 days before it settled! This is a great strategy but you need to stay fit and ready!

    As there are way too many amazing climbs to be exhaustive,here are some of the classic and accesible lines lines:

    • The Aguja de l'S: Austrian Route (350m,5.9) , East Face (450m,5.9)
    • Aguja Saint-Exupery: Claro de luna (750m, 5.11b), Austrian route (550m, 5.11c)
    • Aguja Raphel Juarez :Artebelleza (300m 5.11b)
    • Aguja poincenot: Whillans-Cochrane (550m 5+ 70° M4), Potter-Davis (500m, 5.11d)
    • Aguja Fitz Roy : Franco-Argentinian (650m, 5.11-, 55°), Affanazieff route, Super Colouir
    • Pillar Goretta: Casarotto, Mate porro y todo lo demas
    • Aguja Mermoz: Angentinian (600m, 5.10), Red Pilar
    • Aguja Guillaumet: Amy-Vidaihet, Comensana-Fonrouge)
    Fitz Roy
    Cerro Torre
    • Cerro Torre: South-East Ridge (ex- compressor), Cork-screw, Ferrari Route (west face)
    • Torre Egger: Standhart-egger traverse, titanic, American route.
    • Cerro Standhart: Fersterville, Exoset.
    • Aguja Bifida
    • Aguja MediaLuna Rubio y Azul
    • El mocho: Voie des benitiers, Frader Pisafe

    See Rollando Garibotti's incredible guidebook to chalten or website Pataclimb.com for much more information on these climbs.

    For more informations on conditions, difficulties and prices please contact me directly!