Expedition San Lorenzo east face 2018
Updated: Sep 6, 2018
The east face of Cerro San Lorenzo is one of the biggest unclimbed challenges in Patagonia.
Located in the campo de Hielo Norte it’s east face is one kilometer long! Various attempts have failed on the face, because of the size and difficulty of the climb but also because most teams have tried late in the season.
We have tried in 2017 but were thwarted by very bad ice conditions and terrible weather. The 2017 attempt was supported by the american alpine club's Cutting edge grant. Thanks!
This year we will go in october.
Cold temperatures are needed to make this ascent as the granite is not of the best quality and good ice conditions are required. It makes the timing tricky since too early the ice will not be formed and too late the mountain get's dangerous from rockfall. Combined with a crown of seracs that only leaves 2 possible lines... and a face 1600m high.... and terrible weather... let's just say it's gonna be a nice challenge!
The route will involve difficult mixed climbing. It has been referred to by as a possible “harder version of moonflower buttress”.
There have been various attempts, most not even succeeding in even touching the wall because of foul weather. Rolando Garibotti and Mick Fowler have both been helpful in giving us information and photos.
We’ve chosen an early date of ascent believing that this is the key to successfully climbing he wall. In late winter high-pressure systems are more common and the cold temperatures allow better ice conditions.
Our style of ascent will be Alpine, going as fast and light as we can.
The commitment in this zone is very big as no rescue operations are possible (no rescue team, no helicopter). We will adapt our climbing knowingly.
The Approach is a day and a half long in winter and is done by skinning in from Puesto Rincon.
We have received the 2017 American alpine journal’s Cutting edge grant for this project.
We have received 2018 FFME grant (french federation). Thanks!